Whether you need to buy a dress shirt, a suit, or even a pair of slacks, you find yourself faced with many different fits to choose from. Every shirt or jacket on the market comes in various slight variations in shape these days. For example, what is the difference between classic fit and modern fit?
Modern-fit shirts and jackets have a tailored outline but a slightly closer fit than a classic fit, which typically offers a boxier outline and more room for movement. Modern-fit pants often have a lower rise to lengthen the torso, while classic-fit suit pants will have a mid-waist rise in a more traditional cut.
In this article, you will learn the key characteristics of classic fit and modern fit. You will discover which style works best for certain body types. Finally, you will find tips to help you pick the best fit for you.
Classic Fit Vs Modern Fit: Key Points
|Classic Fit||Modern Fit|
|Appearance||Slightly boxy and more traditional||Tailored fit to highlight the natural shape of the body|
|Comfort||Very comfortable due to extra fabric in key areas like the chest and waist||Less comfortable due to more slender, fitted shape throughout|
|Cut||Lots of straight lines at side seams, giving garments a rectangular shape||Tapered side seams that narrow from top to bottom, giving garments a more curved shape|
|Body Shape||Works well for people with bigger builds||Works well on many body types, but does outline the shape of the body|
|Shoulders||Extra room in the shoulders||Closely fitted shoulders|
|Chest||Extra room around the chest||Closel fitted, though not tight, chest|
|Sleeves||Often features wide armholes and looser upper arm||More narrow armholes and fitted upper arm, with tapered sleeve|
|Waist||Loose fit at the waist||Close fit at the waist|
|Seat||Loose and comfortable||Looser than slim fit, but closer thoughout pants than classic fit|
|Leg Opening||Wide leg opening, often measuring 16” or more||Narrower leg opening due to narrow pant leg, often measuring around 14”|
What is Classic Fit?
For example, a classic-fit suit jacket will have straight side seams instead of seams that curve in to highlight the waist. The jacket will also typically feature extra space in the shoulders.
A classic-fit shirt should also have straight side seams. If you spread it flat on the floor, it would look more boxy than most other shirt fits.
Classic fit pants vary from brand to brand, but you can expect a higher rise and waistband. Usually, classic-fit pants taper in a tailored line from the hip to the knee but then hang in a straight line from the knee to the leg opening at the ankle. This typically gives this style of pants a wider leg opening.
Classic-fit dress pants often have pleats in the front, but this depends on the brand and style that you like.
The idea with classic fit is that you look traditional and feel comfortable. Some brands name this fit “traditional” instead of classic.
The key to looking good in this less-trendy style is to make sure the garments fit key portions of your body precisely. For example, the shoulder seams on a shirt or suit jacket should hit you exactly at the end of your shoulder.
While anyone who likes a more traditional style or extra room for movement might like a classic fit, it works especially well for people with broad shoulders or a big frame.
What is Modern Fit?Modern-fit clothing features a slender, straight cut that presents a sharp silhouette without much extra room for movement. This style usually falls between classic fit and slim fit in terms of looseness and overall shape.
Modern-fit pants usually have a lower waistline and narrow, straight pant legs. The pants will not pinch or cling to your legs like slim-fit pants might, but they also do not provide much extra room for imagination between your skin and the fabric of the trousers!
Modern-fit suit jackets and shirts mimic the natural shape of the torso by nipping in at the waist and highlighting the shoulders with a close cut. The sleeves also usually outline the shape of the arm quite closely.
Modern-fit clothes work well for someone who wants to look sharp, stylish, and knowledgeable about fashion trends. For several decades, professional styles have tended toward closer fits and a tailored outline. That said, a modern fit is usually considerably looser than a slim fit.
Unlike slim-fit clothing, which usually only looks good on people with slender bodies, modern-fit clothing can look good on many different body types.
What is the Difference Between Classic Fit and Modern Fit?
The main difference between classic fit and modern fit is that classic fit clothes have a looser shape and straighter lines, while modern fit has a closer fit and more tailored lines. Both styles typically fall between a regular or loose cut and a slim fit cut in terms of overall tightness.
Modern-fit clothes include tailored side seams and closer-fitting sleeves and pant legs than classic-fit clothes, which gives modern-fit clothing an overall more slender and modern appearance. Hence the name for the cut, of course!
Classic-fit clothing should not look dowdy or baggy if you buy clothing that fits you properly, but it is true that the straight side seams and roomier cut of this fit tend to disguise the shape of your body instead of highlighting it as modern fit does.
On the other hand, the classic fit has remained a popular style since the 1950s, while the modern fit is a newer incarnation that fits the current trend for a slim silhouette with sharply tailored seams.
Classic-fit clothing often feels more comfortable than modern-fit clothing because it includes more fabric and has a looser fit. The extra ease of movement comes from straight side seams, looser sleeves, and wider shoulders.
But comfort depends on personal preference, and you may also find certain elements of a modern fit more appealing. For example, the waistline on classic-fit pants usually rests at the natural waistline, which you may find too high or uncomfortable if you usually wear more modern fits with a lower rise and a lower waistline.
CutThe biggest difference between classic and modern fits is in the cut, as classic-fit clothes usually have a looser, more rectangular shape and modern-fit clothing has a more curved shape that follows the body’s natural lines. The exact dimensions of a cut will vary from one brand to another, of course. But you can expect to see certain key distinctions between the cut on classic and modern fit:
- Classic fit shirts usually have straight side seams, while modern-fit shirts always have side seams that curve inward toward the waistline. This makes the lower portion of modern-fit shirts cinch more closely around your body, highlighting your shape.
- Classic fit shirts and jackets often include extra room in the armhole, creating a wider upper sleeve. This feature provides ease of movement, but modern-fit shirts and jackets have narrower sleeves that more closely define the outline of your arm.
- In most cases, classic-fit shirts also include extra space around the chest, while modern-fit shirts will fit closely around the chest without clinging so tightly that you worry the buttons will pop open.
- Classic-fit pants often have a higher waistline and loose, straight lower legs, while modern-fit pants typically feature a lower waistline and more slender legs.
These small differences in the cut of each style create a drastically different overall appearance. When you wear classic fit clothes, you will look traditional but also feel a bit boxy. When you wear a modern-fit suit or shirt, you will create a sleeker, more stylish appearance because the clothes show the shape of your body more closely.
While you should wear what makes you feel most comfortable, classic fit often looks especially good on people with a bigger frame, while modern fit can look good on many body types, including people with slender or large builds.
If you have a slender build, you may find that a classic fit suit jacket looks as if it hangs off you, even if it fits perfectly in the shoulders. This is because the straight cut will slightly extend from your narrow waist. If you wear a modern fit, the tapered waist will pinch in at your waistline instead of looking s if it hangs off you.
On the other hand, if you have wide shoulders or a larger build, the classic fit will give you the space for movement that you need. A modern fit might feel too constraining because of its tapered shape.
ShouldersIn most cases, classic-fit clothing offers more room in the shoulders than modern-fit clothing. Classic fit shirts and jackets may feature as much as half an inch of extra fabric across the shoulders compared to a modern fit from the same brand.
Sometimes classic-fit men’s dress shirts will even feature a box pleat at the back of the shirt for extra ease of movement through the shoulders and chest. However, you don’t always see this feature, as some brands reserve it for the regular cut.
Likewise, classic fit shirts and jackets typically include more room in the chest than modern fit clothing. This varies from brand to brand, but you may find as much as half an inch to an inch of difference in the circumference around the chest, right at the armpit level.
This is not just about providing extra room for your chest to expand as you breathe. A wider circumference around the chest means a wider overall shape for a classic fit shirt because the garment has straight side seams. This means that the hem of the shirt should have the same circumference as the chest-level circumference.
Classic and modern-fit clothes also look different in the sleeves because classic-fit shirts and jackets have wider sleeves and modern-fit clothing has more narrow and tapered sleeves.
Classic-fit clothing often (though not always) features a wider armhole than modern-fit clothes. This allows you to freely move your arm up, down, and around. But the wider armhole necessitates a wider upper arm on the sleeve, creating an overall looser shape.
In contrast, a modern-fit shirt or jacket often has a slightly smaller armhole and a slender upper arm of the sleeve. Plus, the seams on the sleeve will taper, or narrow, slightly from the top of the sleeve to the cuff. This creates a sleeve in the shape of your arm without too much space between your arm and the fabric.
At first glance, the most obvious difference between classic and modern fit clothing is that classic fit clothing obscures the waist, while modern fit clothing highlights it. In practical terms, this means that modern-fit clothing has tapered seams that pinch in closer to the waist than classic-fit clothing.
This is one reason people with a larger build tend to prefer classic-fit clothing. Not everyone wants to draw attention to the waistline!
Both classic and modern fit pants provide a little extra room for comfort and ease of movement in the seat of a pair of pants. However, modern-ft pants fit more closely throughout the whole garment than classic-fit pants. So if you prefer looser pants, go with a classic fit.
Classic-fit pants often have a wider leg opening than modern-fit pants because the classic-fit style has a wider pant leg all the way down. While exact measurements depend on the brand, you may find that the leg opening on a pair of classic-fit pants will easily hide the top portion of your foot, while the smaller leg opening on modern-fit pants will show more of the top of your shoe.
Classic-fit pants often have a leg opening of at least 16” or 16.5”. Again, this does depend on the individual brand, though.
Modern-fit pants typically have a smaller leg opening measuring around 14” or 14.5”.
The classic-fit style works best for anyone who likes a more traditional appearance, while the modern-fit style looks more tailored and stylish and is in line with current fashion trends in the professional world.
Besides the overall vibe of the styles, classic fit can look good on people with bigger bodies because it has a looser fit that does not highlight the shape or curves of the body. Modern fit does have tailored seams intended to outline the silhouette of your figure.
If you work in a lawyer’s office and you want to look sharp and professional, you may want to invest in a modern-fit suit tailored to fit you. But if you want to feel comfortable attending your cousin’s wedding, a classic-fit suit with extra fabric may work best for you.
Classic Fit vs Modern Fit
Now that you understand the key differences between classic fit and modern fit, look at how these differences play out in garments like a shirt or suit.
PantsThe key difference between classic and modern-fit pants lies in the lower leg because classic-fit pants have a wider leg than modern-fit pants.
Classic fit pants:
- Look traditional and dressy, especially if you get trousers or dress pants made from quality fabric like wool.
- Have a waist at the natural waist, higher up on your torso.
- Have tailored upper legs but a straight lower leg, leading to a wide leg opening and a looser overall appearance.
Modern fit pants:
- Look fitted and more modern due to the more narrow pant leg.
- Have a lower waistline that sits below the natural waist.
- Feature narrow, straight legs with a smaller leg opening.
JeansBrands that offer jeans in a modern or classic fit usually include more room in the hips and thighs than you would see in a pair of dress pants with the same cut. This is because denim feels more constraining, so the extra space gives you room for movement.
Also, modern-fit jeans can look sharp and business-like because of their tailored shape and narrow legs. However, this style should not wrinkle around your legs or squeeze you as skinny-fit or slim-fit jeans would.
Not as many brands offer classic-fit jeans–you see this style much more often with dress pants and trousers. But if a brand does offer classic-fit jeans, you can expect a comfortable amount of room in the seat and thighs and a wider, straight leg from the knee to the leg opening.
A classic-fit shirt will feel loose and comfortable, while a modern-fit shirt will fit more closely to the shape of your torso.
Classic fit shirts:
- Have a slightly boxy appearance because of straight side seams
- Often incorporate as much as a half inch to an inch of extra material in the shoulders and chest
- May have wider armholes and looser upper arms. They usually do not have sleeves that taper as much as a modern-fit shirt.
Modern fit shirts:
- Have tapered side seams leading to a waist circumference that can fit anywhere from 1 to 2” tighter than the waist of a classic fit shirt
- Have a more fitted chest and shoulders, usually measuring half an inch to an inch smaller than a classic-fit shirt
- Often have slender sleeves, tapering down to the cuff
Most brands do not offer a classic fit or a modern fit t-shirt. Instead, they use terms like regular or loose fit to describe a classic-style tee and slim or modern to describe a more fitted tee.
Generally speaking, you see classic and modern fit styles more often with dressier clothes than with informal clothing like a t-shirt.
A classic-fit suit jacket has a more traditional style, while a modern-fit suit jacket has a closer-fitting, edgier style.
Just like with dress shirts, a classic fit suit jacket will have straight side seams, wider shoulders, and more room in the chest. A modern-fit suit jacket will have tapered side seams and closer-fitting shoulders, chest, and waist.
A modern-fit suit jacket can have a slimming effect on people with many body types, while a classic-fit style looks good on people with a big frame but can tend to swallow up more slender people.
Classic and Modern Fit Compared
Sometimes comparing a clothing style to similar looks can also help you understand the fit, so look at how classic and modern fit line up in comparison to executive and tailored fit.
Executive Fit Vs Classic Fit
The main difference between a classic fit and an executive fit suit is that an executive fit includes several extra inches in the waist of the jacket and pants. Also called a “portly fit” suit, this design suits anyone with a stomach that measures two inches or more than the circumference of the chest.
Modern Fit Vs Executive Fit
Modern fit and executive fit suits tend to look extremely different because modern fit suits narrow in at the waist. In contrast, executive fit suits include extra fabric to make the waist bigger.
Executive suits ease out over a rounded waistline, hiding the bulk. The suit jacket typically has a little extra length to drape over the larger stomach. Plus, the pants will include a few extra inches at the waistline without altering the rest of the shape.
Modern Fit Vs Tailored Fit
Modern fit sometimes means a slightly looser fit than tailored fit, but some brands use these terms to mean the same thing. In this case, modern fit simply means a more tailored, close-fitting version of the classic cut.
If a brand does offer both modern and tailored fit, the tailored fit will have a marginally closer fit, especially in the waist and shoulders. It may also have narrower sleeves or pant legs and look closer to a slim fit.
What Fit Shirt Should You Wear?
You should pick a shirt fit based on the impression you want to give and your body type. If you want to look modern or super professional, you may want to go with a modern fit. On the other hand, if you know your body and feel that a classic fit highlights your good points, go with the more traditional cut instead.
- People with a rectangular, straight body type often want to wear shirts with horizontal stripes to make their shoulders look broader. A modern fit will almost always look better because of the tailored waistline, which makes the shoulder look bigger.
- For people with an inverted triangle body, with broad shoulders and a narrow waist, try dress shirts made from heavy-weight cotton that won’t stretch out so much because of strain from your broad shoulders. A modern fit will highlight your thin waist and draw attention to your broad shoulders, though you may feel more comfortable in the classic fit that provides more ease of shoulder movement. Make sure you also choose pants with a wider leg to balance your wide shoulders.
- If you have an oval or triangular body, you may want shirts that do not emphasize your waistline. In this case, classic-fit styles will likely feel more comfortable for you.
The main difference between classic and modern fit is that classic fit feels looser and has straighter lines. Modern fit has tighter, more tailored fit and tapered lines. Classic fit clothes look more traditional, while modern fit clothes have a stylish, sharp silhouette.
But classic-fit clothing also tends to feel more comfortable because the garments incorporate extra room to allow ease of movement. Classic-fit shirts and jackets often have a wider chest and a much larger waist than modern-fit shirts and jackets. Classic-fit pants have straight, wider lower legs, while modern-fit pants have narrow, slim legs all the way down.
Have you ever tried a classic or modern fit? Which one did you like better? Leave a comment to let us know!